I'm back from my trip to
Uluru, better known as Ayre's Rock, in the red center of Australia. Man, what a great trip! It is a stunning place.
Loretta had some frequent flyer miles that were going to expire at the end of January. She had enough miles to get her and I two tickets from Perth to Uluru. So we were able to fly for free. The hotels there are very expensive, so I opted to camp, which was very reasonable.
ImpressionsMy initial impression of the Uluru area? Lush! Seriously... It is so green. The photos you see of Uluru have what look like desert shrubs around the base. Those are not shrubs. They are trees. And, they are mostly PINE TREES. Who would have thunk? It feels like Arizona, but with pine trees instead of saguaro cacti.
Actually, they are not pine trees. They are technically an oak tree called The Desert Oak (Allocasuarina decaisneana). And their pine cones are technically fruit. They grow straight, have needles, and cones. They look like Christmas trees. Could have fooled me.
Another thing about the are that surprised me was how hilly it was. I was expecting it to be flat, like the famous
Nullabor Plain to the south. It was hilly with mountains ringing the horizon.
The
campground was great! It is part of the resort there. They have a free shuttle from the airport. The campground features nice soft green grass and shade trees trees. Hot showers, a pool, laundry, fridges, store, gas cooking grills, communal kitchen. All for $13 a night. It sure beat paying $300+ a night for a room across the road!
It rained two of the days were were there. The locals said that was very rare. But it was no big deal. It didn't rain that hard. And it didn't stop us from enjoying the place.
Uluru (Ayres Rock)You can climb Uluru, weather permitting.
They discourage it. The aboriginal tribe who own the area claim it is sacred, the center of the world, and don't like it trampled on. So it is strongly suggested to be politically incorrect and cultural insensitive to climb it.
I've never been politically correct, or sensitive. So I climbed it. When I got back to work, my more "enlightened" co-workers asked me, with a condescending tone in their voice, if I had climbed it. I answer "Yes I did. But I didn't enjoy it." That usually shuts them up.
Because of the rain the first day, the climbing was closed. That was fine. Instead we did the base hike which circumvents the rock. Wow! You must do this hike. It is not technical since it is flat. But it does take a few hours. It is so remarkable because the rock has a million faces. Every few minutes you should stop and take a look. The view is totally different, just a breathtaking, and an amazing natural wonder.
The second day was bright and clear. So we were able to climb to the summit. This is not a climb for people who are afraid of heights! The first part is very steep, about 45 degrees in some spots. It is so steep that there is a chain bolted into the face to hang on to.
About half way up, the path levels out a little more, and the chain ends. From there to the summit you have to climb up and down through the deep cuts in the rock. It is more technical here. Not for people out of shape of scared of heights.
The view from the summit is magnificent. You can see the horizon for 360 degrees, for what seems like 100 miles around.
The OlgasNearby is another large rock outcropping called
Kata Tjuta (aka "The Olgas"). You can't climb them. There are a couple of hiking trails there. Kata Tjuta is beautiful, far more than Uluru. It features the most amazing canyons. If you come to Uluru, then you must take half a day at least and hike Kata Tjuta.
Aboriginals
Didn't see very many Aborginals around there. They have a cultural center near Uluru that is worth seeing. In the center they have photos of many of the tribe leaders and important people. But when the person dies, they have to remove the photo from the center because Aborginals do not believe that it is OK to see an image of person who is dead. So as you walk through the center, they have blacked out photos here and there as the person in the photo has since died.
WildlifeWe did catch some wildlife. There are
feral camels roaming around. We saw some wild
Dingos, and you can hear them yelping at night like coyotes in America. We saw some
Thorny Devilson the road,
Honey Ants,
Crested Pigeons, and a lot of lizards.
Suggestion For VistorsBecause I didn't have a car there, I was not able to get over to
King's Canyon, which is about a 3 hour drive away. The next trip to Northern Territory, I will go there.
If you plan to go there, I recommend that you fly into Alice Springs, and then hire a station wagon from
Alice Camp 'n' Drive. It is a company run by a couple of guys in Alice Springs who came up with a good idea. They rent full size Ford station wagons loaded with camping gear (tent, air mattress, cooler, lamps, stove, etc.). I saw a few of their wagons at the campsite and I talked to the campers who had rented them. They had nothing but praise for the outfit. They liked them because they didn't have a 7 day minimum like the camper van companies do. They are cheaper (I was quoted $120 a day), and get much better mileage than an RV. Plus you can opt to skip the tent and sleep in the back of the wagon.
Food is expensive at the Ayres Rock Resort! There is a small, overpriced grocery store there. However, if you rent a wagon in Alice Springs, and stock up at a grocery store there before you go, then you can save a lot of money.
What else? If you like your booze, then stock up in Alice Springs before driving over. There is only one place you can buy beer and wine, and they limit how much you can have. Not a problem for me since I am a one-beer-a-day guy. But since you are in the desert, and they have a limit a 6 beers a day, I can see where that would be a serious problem for some people I know.
Flying GlitchesI had a couple of traveling glitches. After camping and hiking for 3 days, I looked like a bit of a wild man with my unshaven face and dark tan. So when I went through security at the airport for the flight home, I was pulled aside for special attention and a screening of my clothes and luggage for explosives. Loretta asked them why they picked me, and they gave her the stock answer "It is random." Bull shit. We finally got the lady to admit that she selected me because I fit the profile of a hijacker. You know, male, dark, hair on face, scary looking. It happens to me often when I travel, especially when I am tired, or tanner than normal.
On the way to the airport, and at the airport, Loretta and I kept detecting the faint whiff of something smelly, like poo. But we could not figure out what it was. Every once in a while it would hit us. We checked everything. No luck. So we got on the plane and flew to Perth. On the flight we kept smelling it again? Was it us? Was it one of the fellow passengers who left with us that day?
That night when I got home and undressed, I found the source of the smell. There was some dog shit smeared on the side of my tennis shoes that I was wearing. Even though I had checked the bottom of my shoes at the airport, I had failed to notice the poop because it was the extact some color as the red dirt all over my shoes. I was so mortified and embarrassed. I had made my fellow bus and place passengers suffer because I couldn't see dog poop through the dirt.
So if you read on a blog somewhere on the net that some poor traveler flying out of Ayres Rock had a passenger from hell on board, a scary terrorist looking Yank who stank like poop, then it was me. I am so, so, sorry. *sigh*